Trajan's Column

Trajan’s Column can be found in the city of Rome on the Via Dei Fori Imperali, in Trajans Forum about half a mile east of the Tiber River. The senate and Trajan himself commissioned the building of the column in AD 113 in order to pay homage to Trajan and serve as tomb, “…as a tomb for himself”(Dio). In fact he is the only emperor to be buried within the city walls as his bones and ashes from cremation lay below in a gold urn, “…received the singular honor of burial within the city boundaries” (Eutropius). The Column itself is 128(RF) roman feet high with a 16(RF) statue of Trajan placed on top. The base is made up of 29 massive square blocks of White Italian Marble. The pictures that were placed on the Column after Trajan’s death depict his personal account of the Dacian wars. The Dacian wars were a series of battles between the Romans and the Dacians under the rule of Agustus. As well as serving as a tomb the column stands for the great prosperity that Trajan brought to the Roman Empire. However the Column today does not exist as it once did, in the 1550’s it was converted into a bell tower and the statue of Trajan was replaced by one of Saint Peter. The column is now a part a large tourist attraction.
1 roman foot= .296 meters

The Via Appia

Transportation is one of the major challenges of the 20th and 21st centuries. Both the United States and Germany built the interstate and the Autobahn respectively with the intent of easily mobilizing troops across the nation, and the same is true of Rome’s great road, the Via Appia.

The road was commissioned by a Roman statesmen, Appius Claudius Caecus, in 312 BC with the interest of making it easier for the Roman army to cross the Pontine Marshes (a great military obstacle). Once the potential of the road was realized, it was said to be “for soldiers, for nobles, and for the most celebrated kingdom” (insignis, nobilis, celeberrima, regina viarum). This saying became the unofficial slogan of the Via Appia through its constant use by the Roman military. The road served to expand Rome’s power through its continued expansion of thirty five miles during the third Samnite war. After nearly 100 years of expansion, the road stretched a whopping 347 miles across Italy.

The road not only helped Rome to defend Italy from external threats, but served to intimidate those who would have unrest. After the the slave rebellion led by Spartacus, 6000 rebels were crucified across a 124 mile stretch - that's one every 14 feet!

But more than anything, the road was a popular avenue for recreational transportation and migration of goods by merchants. The Appian Way was also the setting for famous Roman writers such as in Horace’s Satires. In this work, he explains the congested condition of the road and often references the “boatmen and innkeepers” to detail the job occupations that were available to many Romans because of the road’s presence.

The road remains a popular destination today and was even included in the 1960 summer Olympics marathon course. So if you find yourself in Rome you will net regret the 300+ mile trip down memory lane.

Don’t Miss!
Porta Appia (gate of the Aurelian Walls)
The gate, a brick structure with turrets, still stands and has been restored to good condition. Modern traffic flows under it. Inside and upstairs is a museum dedicated to the construction of the walls and their recent restoration.

The Roman Bath’s of Capo di Bove
The area contains the thermal baths of a vast property owned in the 2nd century AD by Herodes Atticus and his wife Annia Regilla. The excavations, which can be visited daily free of charge, revealed thermal baths dating back to the middle of the 2nd century.

The Circus of Mexentius
The Circus itself is the best preserved of all Roman circuses, and is second only in size to the Circus Maximus in Rome. The only games recorded at the circus were its inaugural ones and these are generally thought to have been funerary in character.

The tomb of Cecelia Metella
Located at the top of a hill on the Appian Way, the tomb dominates the surrounding landscape. Atop a quadrangular base seven meters high, it consists of a cylindrical body 11 meters in height, with a diameter of 29 meters; this is surmounted by fortifications added during the medieval period.

The Pantheon

The Pantheon, located in the Regione IX Circus Flaminius, is Rome’s oldest and most used temple. It was primarily used as a temple to worship all of the gods in Rome. Dio speculated that “for most interpretations: his suggestion that the dome is meant to resemble the Heavens has given impetus to those who would see it as a temple to the cosmos with all its deities”(Aicher). Marcus Agrippa first commissioned this temple in 27 B.C. after the battle of Actium in 31 B.C. However throughout the years, the Pantheon was destroyed by fires twice and then rebuilt again by the emperor of that time. The last update the Pantheon was in 202 A.D. by Septimius Severus and Caracalla.

The temple was originally approached by a flight of steps, where people would walk up to get to the front. The front of the building had Greek-style columns and the dome in back of the temple was considerably younger. There was also a pediment that was decorated with a relief sculpture, made mostly of gilded bronze. On the front of the building it says, “M agrippa L F cos tertivm fecit,” meaning “Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, built this.” This temple was also specifically used to worship all of the gods in Rome. On the inside of the dome, there are about 140 coffers sunken into the stone. "The cupola, which is a perfect hemisphere, has the same height as the diameter of the cylindrical drum on which its sits"(Aicher). It still consists of two main parts, a traditional rectangular portico supported by massive granite Corinthian columns, and a huge round concrete structure made of brick on the outside. The entire Pantheon stands on a podium with steps leading to the portico entrance.

Since the Renaissance, the Pantheon has been specifically used as a tomb. Some famous people such as Raphael, the painter, and two kings of Italy are buried there. Now, it is used as a Roman Catholic Church dedicated to St. Mary and the Martyrs. They still celebrate Mass regularly inside the Pantheon. The base building of building of the Pantheon has about 19 foot thick walls to support the massive weight of the dome. Due to the very thick walls, the Pantheon is primarily a lot colder inside than outside. However, due to the center of the dome being open, rain typically gets in creating puddles of water inside the Pantheon. The Pantheon also has no windows, just a hole in the roof, which is circular like the dome. The pantheon walls are made of very thick brick, while the columns are made of marble. Finally, to lessen the weight of the dome, the architects carved the ceiling a certain way by using less dense stones and rocks. This limited the amount of force on the columns from the dome was pushing down on them.

All in all, the Pantheon is a must see to all those who are in Rome. If you are religious and love to go to church, this will be, by far, the best site for you to go to. You can also attend church their and receive Communion in Rome.




Works Cited
"Pantheon, Rome." Wikipedia, the Free Encyclopedia. Web. 17 Feb. 2011.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantheon,_Rome>.


Aicher, Peter J. Rome Alive: a Source-guide to the Ancient City. Wauconda, IL: Bolchazy-Carducci, 2004. Print.

The Colosseum

The Colosseum (which is also spelled “Coliseum” believe it or not) is an elliptical amphitheatre designed to hold approximately 45-55 thousand people. Originally named the Flavian Amphitheatre (it was later changed because of a colossal statue of Nero that once stood nearby), this stunning architectural landmark features a different style of architecture on each level. The first level is that of a Doric style, the second level is composed with the Ionic style, and the third and fourth levels utilize a Corinthian style. Although Vespasian, the Roman emperor from 69 to 79 AD, commissioned it somewhere between 70 and 72 AD, Titus completed the construction of this monumentally magnificent masterpiece in 80 AD. It was located at the center of Rome, but was also symbolically at the center of ancient Roman culture. The Coliseum is sometimes viewed as a symbol of Roman victory in the Great Jewish Revolt of 70 AD because it was paid part from the spoils of that war.

The majority of the many functions it served were for purely for entertainment purposes. These functions included gladiator battles (which were sometimes staged), ceremonial slaughtering of animals, and executions (which were usually performed in way that pleased the crowd).

The once-great Coliseum, which was host to horrifically brutal deaths, is now a mere tourist attraction. Free admittance to the upper levels is offered to people over the age of 65 or under the age of 18. Sadly, spectators of this ancient arena of murder and martyrdom will not behold the full glory of its prime years. In 217 AD a fire (that allegedly started as a result of lightning) burned down most of the wooden structures within the Coliseum (including the center stage). Another fire, that ravaged much of Rome, also partially destroyed the Coliseum in 64 AD. Numerous Earthquakes have sent this rickety stone structure into a further state of dilapidation throughout the years (including a particularly large one in 1349).
In our opinion, not seeing the Coliseum would make your trip to Rome entirely devoid of meaning. As a symbol of ancient Roman culture and probably the most reputable monument left behind by the Romans, the Coliseum stands as a testament to the ingenuity of the Romans as well as their architectural prowess.

Works Cited
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vespasian
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coloseum
http://www.legionxxiv.org/colosseum/

Arch of Constantine

The triumphal Arch of Constantine is located in between the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill. It was built in 315 A.D., to commemorate Constantine’s victory in 312 A.D. when he defeated Mexentius at the battle of Ponte Milvio. Constantine used this arch, along with Thermae Constantiniae (baths of Constantine) to solidify his claim to power. The arch is 21 meters high, 26 meters wide and 7.5 meters deep. The arch has three archways, and the top of the brickwork is riveted by marble. The design of the structure was inspired by the arch of Septimus Severus (seven slaves). On both faces is inscribed the following expression:
IMP · CAES · FL · CONSTANTINO · MAXIMO · P · F · AVGUSTO · S · P · Q · R · QVOD · INSTINCTV · DIVINATATIS · MENTIS · MAGNITVDINE · CVM · EXERCITV · SVO · TAM · DE · TYRANNO · QVAM · DE · OMNI · EIVS · FACTIONE · VNO · TEMPORE · IVSTIS · REM-PUBLICAM · VLTVS · EST · ARMIS · ARCVM · TRIVMPHIS · INSIGNEM · DICAVIT · LIBERATORI · VRBIS — FVNDATORI · QVIETIS
Translated, it says, “To the emperor Flavius Constantine, The Great, the pious and fortunate, the senate and people of Rome, because by divine inspiration his own spirit with his army on both the tyrant and all his faction at once and rightful battle he avenged the State, dedicated this arch as a mark of triumph. Along with the inscription, there are several designs, many of which were made with the intent of praising Constantine. Most notable of the designs are the eight circular relifes, known as “Hadrianic Roundels”. The designs on the relief range from scenes of hunting to scenes of war. Much of the imagery contains symbolism; for instance, the chariots represent eternity of the Roman Empire. As a result of high level preservation, including a fence that prevents visitors from contacting the structure, the arch still stands today and has sustained very minimal damage. The arch was used as the setting for finish line in 1960 Summer Olympic Marathon.

Hadrian's Villa

Some of the most beautiful and intriguing Roman ruins are those of Hadrian’s Villa. The villa is located in Tivoli, Italy; about 18 miles from Rome itself. It is a complex of over 30 buildings, several of which remain standing to this day.

Hadrian’s Villa was constructed and opened in the second and third decades of the second century AD by Hadrian. Hadrian, a Roman emperor during the second century AD, is known for his building of the Hadrian Wall as well as for traveling to nearly every province of the Roman Empire. Hadrian initially constructed the villa as a retreat from the fast-paced everyday life of Rome because he disliked the palace on the Palentine hill. The 250 acres of the villa later became the center of Roman government under Hadrian’s rule and a large court lived there to serve as government with Hadrian.

When it was first built, the structure consisted of over 30 buildings, covering a spread of 250 beautiful acres of Roman countryside. The complex included several palaces, thermae (Roman bath houses), a theatre, temples, libraries (in both Greek and Latin), state rooms, and quarters for courtiers (members of the court), praetorians (bodyguards), and slaves. It featured elements of Roman, Greek, and Egyptian architecture.

Since the time of the Roman Empire, the structures have had their priceless statues and artwork removed for use in other buildings in addition to the rare building materials. It has also been robbed numerous times since the fall of the Western Roman Empire. Not much is known about what the villa actually looked like; however, excavations have led to the belief that the villa was decorated very beautifully.

The buildings have been restored over time. Today, the structures continue to deteriorate rapidly, but some areas are still well preserved, such as the pool and the artificial grotto. Much of the rest of the site has eroded and a great deal of the valuable artifacts have been removed; some of the valuable art and sculptures still remain in Rome and are housed today in the Vatican Museum. Further, the villa definitely has more than what meets the eye. It actually has an extensive underground tunnel network. The tunnels were used to by servants to transport goods without being seen by the residents because the roads above ground were reserved for distinguished individuals of society and residents of the villa.

When visiting Rome, everyone should visit the villa, as it is one of the most beautiful pieces of Roman architecture still in existence. Although much of the art and statues now are in other places, the value of learning more about Roman culture is definitely worth the trip. If you would like to see the art and sculptures, be sure to visit the Vatican Museum!

Works Cited
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hadrian%27s_Villa
All images are from the Wikimedia commons.

The Forum Romanum

The Forum Romanum, or Forum of Rome, is located at the junction between Via Cavor and Via Dei Fori Imperiali. Itcontains a variety of buildings including temples, libraries, shrines, and basilicas. Lucius Tarquinius Priscus built it in 700 BC. It was to be a marketplace. He also desired for it to be the center of political and economic life in Rome. In 283 AD, a fire burned most of it to the ground and it had to be remodeled. Many of the imperial buildings preserved the aura of the earlier Republican precedent. Additionally, it contains a Forum museum which has a significant collection of sculptures and artifacts. When a public figure dies, “his body is escorted across the Forum and…carried…to the Rostra” (Polybius). The Arch of Septimius Severus was set across the Via Sacra in 203 AD. After the fire that burned much of the Forum down, the Basilica Julia and the Senate House were built in fine style.

The Arch of Augustus spans between the Temple of Castor and the Temple of Divus Julius; it celebrates Augustus’ war victories. Temples were built and dedicated to important Romans such as the Temple of the deified Julius Caesar. The Senate House turned the Forum square into a political and monumental precinct. Furthermore, the Forum contains many honorary statues. The Forum Romanum was the center of Roman public life. People could “…take issues to court and where people bring their merchandise to sell" (Varro).

Trials, banking, and schooling were also present. Those under the Napoleonic regime marked the beginning of the clearing of the Forum. The travel time paving in the center has been mostly robbed or removed to permit modern excavations. Today, the ruins of the Forum are major tourist attractions. In conclusion, this is a truly
breathtaking Roman monument.

Works Cited:

Claridge, Amanda, Judith Toms, and Tony Cubberley. Rome: an Oxford Archaeological Guide to Rome. Oxford: Oxford UP, 1998. Print.

"Forum Romanum, Rome (Photo Archive)." Photo Archive (Photo Archive). Web. 17 Feb. 2011.

"Roman Forum." Wikipedia, the Free Encyclopedia. Web. 17 Feb. 2011.

Polybius. History.

Varro. Latin Language.

The Ara Pacis

Would you like to experience a crucial part of Roman history? Would you like to see beautiful carvings depicting Roman life and mythology? Then look no further than the Ara Pacis, also known as the Altar of Augustan Peace. As said in Rome Alive, “Augustus’ return in this instance is treated as a synecdoche for the return of peace in general after the civil wars” (Aicher 245). Constructed from 13 to 9 B.C., this altar was built to honor the Pax Augusta, or peace of Augustus. When the Emperor Augustus returned triumphantly from Gaul and Hispania and brought an era of peace and military superiority to the Roman Empire. The altar was built near the Via Flaminia (modern day Via del Corso). The building itself is an altar surrounded by walls covered in gorgeous carvings. Romaviva states that “The decorations of the "Ara Pacis" are completed by ornaments of naturalistic character, with low relief of plants and small animals and the "Tellus", the divinity representing the personification of peace and prosperity that the empire of Rome was getting prepared to live thanks to the enterprises of Augustus” (Ara Pacis Augustae Rome) The carvings depict many scenes of peace and how the deeds of Augustus returned peace to the Roman Empire. Many of the depictions promote and encourage peace and fertility. Also, scenes from the history and mythology of Rome are shown such as Romulus and Remus (founders of Rome) being discovered as children by a shepherd near a river. The altar was used mainly for worship and sacrifices to the Gods. Later the Altar was buried under 4 meters of silt after the Tiber River flooded. Excavated in 1937, the Altar now has been restored to showcase its detailed carvings. The altar was “reassembled not in its original location but next to the Mausoleum of Augustus at the northern reaches of the Campus Martius.” Benito Mussolini called for a protective building to be placed around the Altar in 1938. Hopefully you will be able to experience the beauty of this wonderful monument when you visit Rome.

Works Cited:

Aicher, Peter J. Rome Alive: a Source-guide to the Ancient City. Wauconda, IL: Bolchazy-Carducci, 2004. Print.

"Ara Pacis Augustae Rome." Alberghi Hotel Roma Bed & Breakfast Roma Alberghi Hotel Roma. Web. 17 Feb. 2011.

Rome Museum Overview

Capitoline Museum:

Pros: A really central location... in an area that you'll likely be in at some point. Some really inportant piece of art are located here. The collosal statue of Constantine (first Christian emperor) as well as the Capitoline She-Wolf bronze (see earlier blog-post).

Cons: Mostly classical pieces. More busts (statues from mid-chest up, than you thought possible in one location).

Recommended for anyone who's in the area and wants to check out an important collection.

Vatican Museum:
Pros: Vast collection of incredible art in a sprawling gallery; a visit here also includes a walk through the Sistine Chapel and some of the frescoed studies. One of the world's most significant and magnificent collections of art.
Cons: Very busy. An entry without a tour requires the longest queue you've ever stood in. The line can snake around the entirity of a country (Vatican City) in the blazing sun.
Recommended for those who really want to see the Sistine chapel or have a particular piece of art that they wish to see in person.
Borghese Gallery:
Pros: Excellent rennaissance paintings and sculptures. Reservations are mandatory and are timed. Much smaller and more manageable gallery than the Vatican.
Cons: Less of the famous works of art than the Vatican. Advanced booking is required which means you have to be organized and can't go at the drop of a hat.
Recommended for those who want to see some beautiful and influential pieces of art without a guided tour.
Villa Giulia:
I've never been here, so I can't give pros or cons. It is very close to our apartment, inside the Borghese Gardens. It's a restored villa which contains a collection of Etruscan art. It's meant to be one of the largest collections Etruscan artifacts in Italy.
Recommended for Lynne and anyone else interested in ancient pottery and metal work.
Montemartini Museum:
Pros: The collection is housed in an old power plant which is a cool and unique setting for a museum. It's a great collection of classical sculpture.
Cons: Not in central Rome so requires a bit of a metro ride to get there. From what I can remember, it's only classical art.
Recommended for those who want an unusual art-viewing experience.

These are definately not the only museums in Rome. They're a few of the ones that I've been to, some of them more than once.

Un caffe per piacere...

The Romans have unspoken rules about coffee...both how to order it and when it should be consumed. There are dedicated coffee shops that vary in their fanciness. Here are a couple of great ones:

La Tazza D'Oro - Near Pantheon - Beautiful and old-fashioned with delicious coffee granita (in picture)

Caffe Sant'Eustachio - Near Piazza Navonna - very busy and small but really good coffee

At a place like these you have two options, you can stand at the bar or sit at a table. Sitting at a table and being served will probably double the price of your coffee. If you choose to stand at the bar, you must first pay the cashier for your drink. Then, cooly walk to the bar and give the receipt to the barristo who will then make your drink.

In addition to dedicated cafes, many of the bars that serve drinks in the evenings do double duty as places to grab a coffee in the morning and afternoon. If you walk into one of these places and it's relatively quiet, as far as i can tell, you can just walk up to the bar and order directly with the barristo.

As far as what to order, there seem to be a billion different ways types of coffee:

un caffe = espresso

un caffe machiato = espresso with a little foam/milk on top

un caffe con panna = espresso with a swirl of whipped cream on top

un cappucino = exactly what you think

un caffe latte = exactly what you think

un latte machiato = hot milk with a dash of espresso

Sometimes you might have the option of getting something hot or cold. Hot is caldo and cold is freddo. I always get confused as to how to say hot and cold because caldo sounds so much like cold. However, I think that the Italian word comes from the same root as the English word scalding, so I now think I can remember.

Italians only drink milky drinks before lunch. If you order a cappucino after dinner, you might get an eye-roll.

Trastevere

Trastevere is a great neighborhood. It's not pristine or manucured, but it's really interesting. It's less crowded with tourists than other areas of the city because, I think, there are not really any major sights to see. In English, the name of the river that runs through Rome to the Mediterranean is the Tiber. In Italian, the river is the Tevere; so, Trastevere literally means across the Tiber river. Just as Paris is divided into the Left and Right Banks, Rome is a split city too. The main piazza is in front of the beautiful church of Santa Maria in Trasvevere which contains some really lovely mosaics. The easiest way to get here from the Centro Storico is to cross the Tiber at the Ponte Sisto. Really this neighborhood is a collection of tiny piazze joined by alleys. You never know what you might find which makes it fun to wander through. The picture here is a really old apartment building that I saw on one of my last wanderings there. As far as food goes, there are lots of interesting looking little places here. There's a little piazza on the Trastevere side of the Ponte Sisto which has a great restaurant called Trattoria Ponte Sisto that I've eaten at 3 times. There's some great pizza option all through the area. The Food, Wine, Rome, there's a place called Ivo A Trastevere for pizza that sounds really delicious. The place where Anthony Bourdain had Carbonara is in Trastevere at a restaurant called Paris. The cacio e pepe he had was at Roma Sparita, also here.

Interest Survey

As we get closer to our departure date, we'll have to make reservations for some things that people might be interested in. Follow the link below to take the survey I've made. Let me know what you're interested in, if anything, so I can start planning.
Click here to take survey

The "Centro Storico"

The centro storico is the heart of the ancient city. In this area, you'll find lots of ancient ruins as well as some very beautiful piazzas and narrow winding streets. As far as the ancient ruins go, most of the biggies are in this area:
- colosseum
- ancient forum
- pantheon
- a couple of impressive triumphal arches
- capitoline and palatine hills
If you'd like to see what the experts think ancient Rome might have looked like, check out this video (made by one of my professors from UCLA).

Rome Reborn 2.1: A Tour Through Ancient Rome from Bernard Frischer on Vimeo.

In addition to the top notch ancient sites, this area is home to both the Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navonna. Though the restaurants directly on the squares are not the bests, they are really great for having a glass of wine and people watching. Off the squares, you'll find lots of little streets lined with small restaurants. Rome Jewish ghetto is in this neighborhood; it is a labyrinth of confusing little roads which, if I'm remembering correctly, are mostly car-free.

Must-Do List

Wander through the ruins of the Forum starting at the Arch of Septimius Severus and ending between the Arch of Constantine and the Colosseum.

Eat gelato while sitting in the square of the Pantheon. After finishing the gelato, check out the inside of the Pantheon.

Check out the huge fountains in Piazza Navonna.

Stroll through the Campo dei Fiori and the Jewish ghetto (with map).

Rome's Markets

Check out this map I made of some good Roman food markets. I marked the location of our apartment as well as several markets.


View Rome's Markets in a larger map

The 3 periods of Roman History

It's been a while since my last post, but I decided to pick things up again today. This post is historical again, sorry to those of you who object! I'll keep it brief...

After the city of Rome was founded (753 BCE), it was ruled by kings. Romulus was the first king and he populated his new city with fugitives and bandits from all around central Italy. After Romulus, there were 6 more kings. The last king of Rome was Tarquinius Superbus and he was driven out of the city by some rebels in 510 BCE. The kings of Rome had ruled with an iron fist and the successful rebellion resulted in the Roman senate voting to never allow 1 individual to hold so much power. Instead they decided that the city should be governed by 2 individuals (called consuls) who would make joint decisions.

The period of history ushered in by the expulsion of the last king is called the Republican period. The Roman state was politically stable and prosperous. During this time period, through its military might, Rome established itself as the dominant force in the greater Mediterranean area. They lovingly referred the the Mediterranean sea as "our sea." Those who attempted to take power away from Rome were brutally defeated. As Rome grew, the political structure weakened and one very intelligent and crafty man, Julius Caesar, capitalized on the instability. Caesar was a populist and, as such, he was beloved by the normal Roman citizens. The love that the populace had for Caesar paired with his increasing political and military power made the Roman aristocracy uncomfortable. Several individuals from the most elite Roman families tried to put Caesar in his place. Really, all they managed to do was start a series of civil wars that pitted Roman against Roman and hundreds of thousands of lives were lost. Ultimately Caesar was murdered. However, his death ushered in the final phase of Roman history called the principate or empire.

Caesar willed control of Rome to his adopted nephew, Octavius. However, Octavius could not smoothly take over leadership, he was challenged by Marcus Antonius. After second round of bloody civil wars, he finally managed to thoroughly crush all opposition and too control. He became Rome's first emperor and was renamed Augustus. Augustus took it upon himself to beautify Rome which had really become an eye-sore during the civil war years. On his deathbed, he commented "I found Rome a city of brick, and left it a city of marble." It's true. He began a series of building projects which are responsible for some of Rome's most impressive structures. Almost all of what you see in Rome today comes from the Roman principate. Emperors after Augustus continued to build lavish palaces, triumphal arches, amphitheaters, public baths and aqueducts. While Rome was certainly ruled by some great, good, and politically successful emperors, the ones that most people remember are the guys who were completely nuts. You'll see some of their creations in Rome too. By the 4th CE, Rome could no longer be called an Empire. It was divided into parts and had lost virtually all of its power to other groups of people. Rome had fallen...

Gelateria in Rome

In my 4 prior visits to Rome, I took on the arduous and burdensome task of searching for the most delicious gelato in the city. As is the case in most Italian cities, there are gelateria on practically every piazza. Most are average, but every now and then a truly outstanding place crops up. If you're on the hunt for really good gelato, here are 2 color guidelines that are helpful:

1. Pistachio - every shop has it, but examine the color very carefully. Is it an unearthly or florescent green color? If so, you have entered a bad gelateria. If the pistachio is more of a muted sage green, then you're in a good one.
2. Banana - another color examination is in order. Good banana gelato should be a rather unappetizing grey color not vibrant yellow.

If the gelateria passes the color test, you can order any of the flavor with a high degree of certainly that it will be excellent.

One of my favorite gelateria in Rome is Giolitti on Via degli Uffici del Vicario. It appears to be only 600 feet from our apartment. It's been around since 1900. It reminds me of the soup restaurant in the Seinfeld episodes. The service here is very unpleasant. The last time I was there, the cashier was mean to me because I misunderstood the charge and handed her too many euros. Despite the bad service, the gelato is yummy.

My other favorite is called San Crispini. It's also really good gelato and they have some great flavors. The serving size is very small which I like because then i don't feel bad having more than 1 per day. They refuse to serve gelato in a cone because, they feel it detracts from the flavor. It's about 800 ft from where we're staying on Piazza della Maddalena.

I'm very excited to try out a place near Piazza Navonna called Gelateria al Teatro. It's on Via San Simone. It is a artiginale gelateria which means it produces small quantities using the best ingredients possible. They have some really interesting flavors.

That each of these places is so close to our apartment is a dream come true.

If Remus had won, Rome would be called Reme...

The story of Romulus and Remus is the foundation story of Rome. It goes like this...

Once upon a time there was a Vestal Virgin named Rhea Silvia. Vestal Virgins were a group of young women who served as priestesses. Their job was to attend to the goddess Vesta, who was the goddess of the hearth and was extremely important to everyone, rich or poor, in Rome. The Vestals took vows of chastity to serve this goddess and to be chosen as a priestess was a real honor to one's family.

So, on with the story. Rhea Silvia was the daughter of a man named Numitor. Numitor was the rightful leader of his town but was pushed into exile by his evil brother, Amulius. To ensure that his rule would never be challenged, Amulius killed Numitor's male children and made Rhea Silvia a Vestal Virgin so that she would never have kids. As is turns out, Rhea Silvia was raped by the god of war, Mars. This really could happen!

When Amulius learned that Rhea Silvia was pregnant, he waited until the birth. Rhea Silvia had twin boys and Amulius immediately took them from her. Amulius handed the infant twins to a couple of thugs and told them to drown the babies in the Tiber river. Incidentally, this practice was not uncommon in Rome's early history. Being thugs, they were lazy by nature and decided to place the babies in the shallows of the river, rather than the deep water.

After spending several hours in a shallow pool, the babies were discovered by a lactating she-wolf. She cares for the infants and feeds them. Then, the babies and the wolf are found by a shepherd. The shepherd takes the twins home to his barren wife and raise them through their teenage years.

As teenagers, Romulus and Remus decide to leave home and found their own village. They return to the bend in the river where they were discovered and choose that location as their new village. Then they begin to squabble...They have dug the foundations for the walls of the village and start to fight about who'll rule the town. In true Etruscan fashion, they look to the gods (via an analysis of the flight of birds) to answer the question. Romulus sees 6 birds flying toward him. Shortly thereafter, Remus sees 12 birds flying toward him. Now there's a real interpretation problem, who is the chosen one? The guy who saw the birds first, or the guy who saw the most birds? Romulus did not want to mess around with divine intervention anymore. He killed his brother and became ruler of the village, which became a town, then a city, and finally a empire.

This story embodies many of the qualities that the Roman people valued. Romulus overcame several challenges in his life that lead him to the foundation of his village. He's the child of the god of war which explains why the Romans were such a militaristic civilization. Respect for the will of the gods is valued, but only to the degree that it doesn't interfere with the ambitions of an individual. I could go on...

Who was in Italy before the Romans?

A few years ago, I gave a presentation to an Italian-American club about the Etruscan people who controlled much of Italy before the Romans came along. I thought that I'd share some of what I talked about with you. The Romans were deeply influenced by the Etruscans and, if you look closely while you're in Rome, you'll be able to see that influence.

When we talk about Etruria, this is the region that we are talking about. West of the Apennine mountain range, north of Rome, and south of Livorno. In general, Tuscany and Lazio. The Etruscans had solid control of central Italy until the Romans anhiliated their towns one by one.

There is much debate as to the origins of the Etruscans. Were they originally Italian? Did they migrate to Italy from some other place? As early as the 9th century BC, there is archeological evidence of Etruscan settlements. They may well have been in the region before this, but, so far, no archeological evidence supports this. Archeology is the primary source of our evidence about the Etruscans, they did not write their own history. The archeology shows that the Etruscans had a highly sophisticated culture. They lived in fortified towns, the earliest examples of which were built high up on hills.

Civita di Bagnoregio is a great example of a fortified town. It sits high above a plain. So it was well protected from surprise attacks. By the 6th century, these fortified towns had developed into a loose confederation that had elected officials. You’re perhaps wondering where Rome fits into all of this. The traditional date for the foundation is 756 BC. Rome was a small village for a really long time. The village coexisted quite happily with the neighboring Etruscan towns. As Rome grew, aggressive encounters with the towns increased in frequency. In 396 BC, Rome defeated the Etruscan town Veii, and gradually the neighboring towns fell one by one. Rome established itself as the dominant force in the region.

Now we come to my favorite aspect of the Etruscan civilization, their art. I mentioned before that most of what we know about the Etruscans comes from archeological evidence. This is an aerial shot of a town called Cerveteri. NOTE: I have not been here yet, but would love to visit in person. It’s just a few miles outside Rome. The mounds that you see are called tumuli, a type of burial chamber. Luckily for us, the Etruscans decorated their tombs lavishly, included pieces of artwork, and daily objects. They carefully sealed the tombs and many of them remained unopened until relatively recently. The Etruscans were famous for their metal work, here are my two favorite great examples:

Capitoline She-Wolf:

If you had to pick a work of art to represent Rome, this would likely be the choice of many individuals. However, it’s really an Etruscan piece. More specifically, the wolf is Etruscan; it pre-dates the founding of Rome. The representations of Romulus and Remus were added much later.

Monteleone Chariot:

Part of the collection of the Met. in New York. In 1902, a landowner working on his property accidentally discovered a subterranean built tomb covered by a tumulus (mound). His investigations revealed the remains of a parade chariot as well as bronze, ceramic, and iron utensils together with other grave goods. Following the discovery, the finds passed through the hands of several Italian owners and dealers, who were responsible for the appearance of the chariot and related material on the Paris art market. There they were purchased in 1903 by General Luigi Palma di Cesnola, the first director of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The chariot is bronze with ivory inlays and boars tusk. The scenes depicted are from the Trojan War. The craftsmanship of this asside, the fact that it shows scenes from the Trojan War indicates how sophisticated the Etruscans were.

While the artistic influence the Etruscans had over the Romans in most interesting to me, it's not the only area where the Romans learned from these fascinating people. Here's a couple more things to remember:

• The Etruscans taught the Romans how to drain the marshy area surrounding the village "Roma" which enabled it to become the vast metropolis that you'll see soon
• The Etruscans taught the Romans how to determine the will of the gods through a careful analysis of the flight pattern of birds or a thorough examination of the liver of a sacrifical animal